Conquering the streets of Hanoi.

It's hard to describe why exactly, but some places just hit you from the moment you step out through the airport door and you know with every fiber of your being that you will just love spending time there. That is exactly what happened to me as I waited curbside at the Hanoi airport exit for the driver to pull the car around. In the blink of an eye, I knew that I was going to enjoy my time in Vietnam.

We arrived to Hanoi in the early morning and had the fortune of seeing much of the city wake up to start their day as we made our way toward our hostel located in the Old Quarter of the city.

The Old Quarter, near Hoan Kiem lake, has the original street layout and architecture of old Hanoi. The area is famous for its small artisans and merchants, including many silk shops. Local cuisine specialties as well as several clubs and bars are also found in the Old Quarter. While it is absolutely chaotic on the narrow streets of the Old Quarter, with the exception of a few hours in the early morning, the charm of the area is not lost amid the insane traffic and deafening horns.

Shortly after arriving and settling in, Jimmy used his couch surfing membership to link up with a local who was interested to meet foreigners visiting her city. So an hour later we found ourselves making the acquaintance of Linh Tran, a lovely university accounting student who spoke wonderful English and was eager to show us her city. Linh escorted us to a restaurant around the corner from our hostel. It certainly wasn't the type of place we would have stumbled into on our own accord; however, with Linh by our side we were treated to our first authentic experience in Vietnam. This was just the first of many genuine experiences in the city thanks to Linh and her hospitality over the duration of our stay.

The boys and I spent the next day exploring the city; taking in a leisurely walk around Hoan Kiem Lake, viewing the Turtle Pagoda, touring Hỏa Lò Prison, visiting the Museum of Ethnology (my absolute favorite), sampling some of the famous street food and more. Getting around Hanoi is not as easy as I make it sound though.

There are nearly four million motorbikes registered in Hanoi and from the traffic witnessed on the streets, you would swear every single one of those bikes was on the road at the same time. Crossing the street in Hanoi is an art form, especially considering traffic police and stop lights are infrequently used in most areas, especially the old quarter.

Locals have varying opinions on techniques for crossing the roads but tend to agree on a few basic rules: be relaxed, walk with confidence, keep alert, look people in the eye, never step backward and never stop. Despite all the coaching you receive from others or your hotel (yes, some hotels even hand out a guide on how to cross the street to their guests), nothing prepares you for the reality of crossing the street in Hanoi for the first time. If you wait for a lull or an open spot, you could spend an entire day at the same intersection and not advance. You can't just walk blindly into the street either. You have to take a few moments and observe the energy of the traffic to get a sense of the rhythm. Once you get a sense of the rhythm, you just have to be prepared to join the dance. 

We started small by crossing the streets inside the Old Quarter. By day two we were ready for the big leagues and braved the roundabout by Hoan Kiem Lake and some of the larger thoroughfares. While my first few attempts felt like a game of human leap frog, I quickly got the hang of things. By the end of day two, I felt like a pro as I waltzed my way across the hectic streets of Hanoi. Some say that if you can conquer the streets of Hanoi, you can conquer anything...I certainly subscribe to that belief after my experience.

In front of Hoan Kiem lake.

With the boys, Jon and Jimmy, outside a single family home on display at the Museum of Ethnology.

Jon and Jimmy climbing up to visit a communal home on display at the Museum of Ethnology.

At Hỏa Lò Prison in front of John McCain's flight suit. This was the prison McCain was detained in during the war. 

This Rickshaw driver was all smiles for Jon and was even more ecstatic when Jon asked him to take a photo together. 

While the food is amazing in Vietnam, don't look for comfort as you sit to eat a meal. Most restaurants, formal or street side, use small stools for seats. 

With Linh at some of the authentic restaurants she took us to eat at during our stay in Hanoi. 

My first (and only) ride on the back of one of the four million motorbikes in Hanoi...my guide for the ride was Linh's younger brother. 

A sample of the insane traffic in Hanoi.