We rented a motorcycle our first day in Vang Vieng and set out to explore the villages outside of town. We navigated the rocky terrain of a back road to make our way to the Yui Waterfall. The waterfall left a little to be desired; however the local market set up at the entrance had a lot to offer. As we walked by one stand and saw a local man grilling something foreign to us, our interest was peaked and we had to ask,"what is that?". Imagine our surprise when he replied, "it's batman". While it looked appetizing, grilled baby bat wasn't on our menu for the day. We decided to say farewell to Pha Phong area and make our way back toward civilization for a late lunch.
Although our bike performed like a trooper on the rocky terrain into Pha Phong, it was no match for the road out and we ended up with a flat tire. We walked the bike to the main road to find most businesses closed due to national woman's day in Lao (a surprisingly important day filled with celebration). To our great luck, we found an open repair shop (owned by all men) not too far down on the main road. Twenty minutes and 40,000 Kip later, our bike was repaired and we set out to get some authentic Vang Vieng cuisine for lunch.
We turned down a dirt road following a sign leading us to a restaurant along the Nam Song river. When we reached the end of the road, we found two restaurants on our side of the river and one restaurant across the river. It's hard to decipher road signs in Lao, the instructions are typically provided in generalities, never really giving any specifics on how to actually get anywhere. So there we stood, confused, with no clue about which restaurant we where being lead to. And then the large crowd at the restaurant across the river lured us in, and we paid the 5,000 Kip a piece to cross the rickety bamboo bridge erected across the waterway. (Side note, almost every bridge in Laos requires payment to cross by car, bike or foot.)
We reached the river banks and found ourselves in the exact sort of local establishment we had in mind to provide us with some traditional Vang Vieng dishes. This was the sort of local place where you know the food is going to be amazing, but you wouldn't ever think to use the toilet. So there we sat, the only foreigners on that side of the river, and waited for our amazing meal to begin. We were not disappointed.
After our late lunch, nothing happens quickly in Laos, we made our way to the Pha Phouk area. We veered off onto a dirk road, which quickly became a rocky road, and suddenly realized we had little sunlight left in the day and absolutely no clue about where we actually where. As we rounded the next corner, we passed two little girls collecting grass stalks that would be used to make brooms. We stopped our bike a short distance ahead of the girls, a regrouping was necessary....would we keep going or turn around.
Before having a chance to discuss anything, one of the little girls was at our side. In the quietest of voices, she whispered a "hello" as she made a drinking sign with her hand to her mouth. Dear god, this little child worked up the courage to approach us simply to ask if we could help quench her thirst...she did not want money or food. We luckily had some water left and quickly handed over our bottle to the girl and her friend. As they guzzled away, I rummaged through my day pack and found a granola bar they might also enjoy. With food in hand, Jon and I took some pictures with the girls before saying goodbye.
As we drove away reflecting on the moving experience we just had....how the girls have to work so hard at such a young age...how they had never seen their picture on a camera before...how we were so grateful to have something to give them...I was left also wondering something much more basic...I sure hope one of them doesn't have a peanut allergy, I just gave them a peanut butter granola bar?!
After properly exploring the rural outskirts of the city, it was time to hone in on our touristic skills the next day and tube down the Nam Song River. In previous years, the Nam Song river was lined with bars, catering to the tourists tubing down the river. The mixture of liquor and water resulted in some accidents/deaths and the authorities have worked to close down a number of the bars in an effort to promote a safer environment. Only two of the bars remain along the shores, serving as respite spots during your 5 hour tubing experience.
Tubing down the Nam Song is near magical at times with the combination of silence and scenery. We were fortunate enough to be out later in the day and even got to witness hot air ballon drivers "wowing" their clientele with near touch landings onto the river. I am certain the beauty of the day would have been lost if the party atmosphere that was so prevalent a year ago still existed today.
With little time left in Vang Vieng, Jon set out to do a dirt bike tour of the countryside with Uncle Tom. Uncle Tom runs a small but amazing business, providing dirt bike tours of the remote villages. He typically works with small groups, 4 or less, so he can maintain a close knit feeling amongst his drivers. Jon was fortunate enough to be the only person signed up to ride on Monday. As a result, he received a much more customized and personal tour of the local villages, even being invited into homes and getting to interact with some of the local people. I had my own sort of customized experience on Monday as well....I was the only person to venture into the heat and enjoy our hotel pool.
By Wednesday it was time to say goodbye to Vang Vieng and everything we loved about that city and head North to Luang Prabang.
Panoramic view of the Karst hill landscape along the Nam Song River.
With the little girls we met who were collecting grass to make brooms.
These girls are carrying double their body weight of grass clippings.
Our favorite restaurant for local cuisine somewhere along the Nam Song River...we never did learn its name.
Uncle Tom giving out some of the gifts that him and Jon bought to give the locals on their afternoon excursion in the countryside.
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